Tips for Mixing Pre-Treated Remix Vocals
Hey, folks. Matthew Weiss here â€" www.weiss-sound.com,
www.theproaudiofiles.com
I'm here to tell you that when you download
an a capella for remixing, you can still treat
that a capella. Here's the thing.
When you get an a capella for a remix, specifically
in something like an EDM record or something
like that, that a capella has generally been
treated. However, it's been treated to match
the original song. It's the original song
a capella.
So, while for the most part, it probably sounds
right, it doesn't mean that it's necessarily
spot on for the track that you're constructing
around that a capella.
Okay, let's give an example here. Here is
a remix provided to me by my friend, EverBeats,
and it has this vocal in it.
[song plays]
And it sounds pretty good. However, I think
that the original track was possibly a slightly
darker sounding record overall, or a slightly
more analog sounding record overall.
I want this vocal to stand out a little more
bright, a little more clearly, and mesh with
the brighter tones of this record. So, I'm
going to throw on this EQ.
[song plays, enabling and bypassing EQ to
vocals]
Alright, let's hear that in solo.
[vocals play soloed]
So, what's going on under the hood here? Well,
I felt that it was a brighter record, I felt
that it was a cleaner record, so I wanted
it to stand a little bit more presently, and
<br><br>
I wanted it to have a little bit more polish
to it, and so what I'm doing here is I'm taking
out a little bit of some spots in the mid-range
that I felt were a little ugly, and also etching
down the very low-range just slightly. This
is almost an imperceptible difference, and
then giving it just a little bit of presence
in the upper-mid range.
I will show you exactly what's going on, one
step at a time.
[edm vocals]
So, that 560Hz cut that I'm doing, that's
primarily cleaning up and cutting down the
room tone from the reverb that's on those
vocals that was printed onto them. Then, similarly,
this 360Hz cut...
[edm vocals]
...Just a slightly boxy tone, so I'm etching
that out a little bit. Given the context of
a different mix, that tone might be necessary
for the vocal to sound like it has body, however,
in this particular remix, we don't need that
tone there.
[vocals play]
The low end bump is just a little bit of extra
woof that's in there. It's very, very subtle,
but it's something where I'm playing a game
of inches*** here, so even if I hear it just
a little bit, that's enough. That's probably
the least impactful move of the whole EQ process
here.
[playing soloed vocals]
So, this 1.5 kHz boost here is not really
going to make too much sense in the solo,
so I'm going to play it in the context of
the record.
[full mix]
It makes the vocals step forward a little
bit, so that it makes sense with that snare
and with some of the brighter synths.
Here's that exaggerated.
[mix plays]
So, in a way, actually, it sort of illustrates
that point, which is that if you were to hear
this in solo mode, with the 1.5 decibel boost
at 1.5kHz, it sounds a little bit grungier,
because there's some grungy tones there, but
because it helps it stand forward, it's still
sort of a necessary move. This is why every
context sort of dictates what the EQ is going
to be.
Ford Focus car stereo wiring color explained 2000-04 How to install wires
<br><br>
Most newer car stereo's come with a 16-pin harness.
These wires are shown on the left under "Standard."
If you follow the "Standard"
wires across to the right, you will see the
wires you need to hook up to.
The red wire is the 12v ignition wire.
This supplies power to the stereo only when the key is turned.
The yellow wire is 12v constantly.
Regardless of whither the key is turned or not.
This supplies power to the radio to save memory
settings like time and what song was last played.
The black wire is the -12v ground wire.
This can be connected to your old harness
or where the wire can have a clean secure
contact to the metal frame of the car.
The solid blue wire is the "Power Antenna" wire,
if you have a power antenna.
The blue wire with the white stripe is if you are going
to hook it up to an external amplifier.
The solid orange wire is for "Illumination."
Meaning the lights in your stereo.
The orange wire with a white stripe is a dimmer.
Some stereos allow the lights to dim when the headlights or parking lights are on.
The brown wire is for whats called "Phone Mute."
It lowers the sound of the stereo when sending or receiving calls.
Some older cars don't have certain
features like external amplifier, dimmer,
or phone mute. In which case you wouldn't
have any wires to hook up.
The last eight standard wires are speaker wires.
These are classified into colors.
The wires with the stripe going through it are all Negative wires.
The wires that are solid colors are the Positive wires.
It's important if you want to get the most out
of your speakers to hook these up correctly.
Positive to the Positive terminal on the
speaker, and Negative to the Negative.
Again looking to the right you will see the
wires that you need to hook up to.
The ones that the manufacturer installed.
One thing to remember is age and heat can change the color of wires.
You can see here on this
harness that there are no white wires.
They have all turned an off-yellow or cream color.
The grey wire has turned to what looks more
like a brown. So what this means is that you
need to take your time and go slow.
First hooking up the wires you are absolutely certain of.
Then it will be easy to sort through the
ones that you may be a little confused on.
As always, disconnect your battery before cutting or splicing any wires.
I hope this video has been helpful to you.
If you have any comments,
suggestion or corrections, please leave it
in the comment section below.
Thanks for watching and have an awesome day.
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