How to Enhance 808s in a Hip-Hop Mix - Galaxy S3 Disassembly

How to Enhance 808s in a Hip-Hop Mix


Hey folks, Matt Weiss here, www.weiss-sound.com,
www.theproaudiofiles.com.
I'm going to combine a couple of different
ideas and relate them to one of
our favorite subjects in the world - 808 kick
drums. Now, this is a little
bit of a weird technique. It sort of involved
concepts learned in both the
mixing hip hop tutorial as well as the mixing
compression tutorial, but
it's going to show you how to approach an
808 a little differently. So
let's check out this 808 kick drum right here.
[Sound plays]
Now for me personally, the interest in an
808 kick drum is generally what's
living the upper octaves. The lower octave
is usually just sort of a fat
sine wave. The upper octaves are where the
distortion and character start
showing up. Now, what this tutorial that I'm
doing right now is going to
show you is how to bring out a lot of that
character in a very transparent,
but bold way. The thing you have to keep in
mind is that it's all
arrangement-dependent. So I'm going to play
the track real quick.
[Music plays]
When you have a very dense track that has
a lot of lower-mid content, or
even just general mid-range content, sometimes
you just want that sine wave
808, and that's fine. When you have a more
open arrangements that don't
have a lot going on, that's usually when you
want to play up the character
of the 808. Sometimes you find yourself in
an arrangement like this one
where it could kind of go either way, and
sometimes you've got to make a
judgement call.
I've made a clone of it because this is going
to be a type of parallel
processing and the idea here is to target
the tone of the 808. So the first
thing I'm going to do is I'm going this FabFilter
Pro-Q and I'm going to
throw on a high-pass filter and I'm going
to get rid of the subtones.
[Sound plays]
OK. So what I've done is here I'm high-passing
it around the 180 Hz and
what that does is it eliminates some of the
subtone. Now, this is the first
little tricky piece. If I were to play this
at the same time as the
original 808.
[Sound plays]
What happens is that the low low end ends
up getting sucked out. This is
because there is something called phase and
that's how EQs work. They work
based on phase change, but not a lot of people
necessarily know that, but
one of the thing that happens is that everything
that's happening below the
cut-off and a lot of what's happening above
the cut-off are coming out of
phase with itself.
Now, normally when you hear just one thing
you don't really hear phase, but
when you play it with something that has similar
sonic material, those
little phase differences make a big difference
and that's why the bottom
end of this 808 is just getting ripped out
when you play the two at the
same time. So I'm going to change this to
linear phase mode and what that
means is that the absolute phase of everything
is going to stay the same
and that's going to allow the low end to stay
more consistent when I play
them back-to-back.
[Sound plays]
Notice that the low end actually stays in
place now? That's good. That's
our first step. Okay. Now the next step is
that I really want to target
just the tone which is that sort of buzzy
distortion, but I don't want to
add extra punch to the 808 itself. What I'm
going to do now is I'm going to
pull up another FabFilter plugin called the
Pro-G which is a gate/expander
which has a very unique function called ducking.
And what ducking does is
it's kind of like compression, where when
the volume exceeds the threshold
it's going to pull the level down.
The difference between ducking and compression
is it's going to pull the
level down more than what a compressor could.
Instead of pulling it down
based on the level of the threshold, it's
going to pull down based on a
preset range. And if I set that range down
to 100 decibels, that means that
if it absolutely breaches the threshold, a
high ratio will pull it all the
way down to 100 decibels. So what we're doing
is trying to remove the
attack using this ducking mechanism.
[Sound plays]
Now, there's still a little bit of leading-edge
in there. You sort of hear
it like it's the sort of fluttery turning
on thing. I'm going to use a look-
ahead to get rid of that.
[Sound plays]
All right. Not bad. And now I'm going to turn
up the output volume.
[Sound plays]
So what I'm essentially done is I've isolated
the buzzy quality that's
coming out of the 808.
[Sound plays]
So here's without.
[Sound plays]
Here's with.
[Sound plays]
Now I'm going to listen to it in the context
of the mix and decide how much
of that extra buzz I want and if I need to
do anything else to it.
[Music plays]
So here's before.
[Music plays]
Here's after.
[Music plays]
Maybe still a touch too much.
[Music plays]
That's pretty cool. All right, guys. Until
next time.


Galaxy S3 Disassembly & Assembly - Sim Tray - Loud Speaker - Buzzer - Earpiece Repair


To disassemble and reassemble your Samsung Galaxy S3
You will need a small Philips Screwdriver
A small bladed screwdriver
Possibly a pointed tool of some kind
And maybe a plastic separation tool or you can use your thumbnail
First of all make sure its switched off and remove the back cover
Take out your battery
remove your micro SD memory card and take out your micro sim card
Now we need to undo 10 Philips screws around the outside edge
you can skip this part by clicking the link
(next) at the top of the video
and do not worry about getting the screws mixed
up as they are all the same size
This is one of the moisture indicators which
will change colour if its been wet
Now we need to remove the back cover
so lift the centre up and keep lifting it up
and eventually the top will pop open
there is a single clip just here near the camera
keep lifting the back away
and that will come unclipped from the bottom as well
this cover contains another moisture sensor
and there is a GSM and 3g antenna at the bottom
and there is another antenna just up here at the top
if you are replacing the screen
its a good idea to test it before you disassemble the phone
start by releasing this main screen connector here
place a bit of sticky tape over the top to
stop it shorting out on the new screen
plug your new screen into this connector
replace your battery
and switch your phone on like you normally would do
once you are happy the screen is working OK
shut the phone down, as you normally would do
when it has shut down, remove the battery and take off the tape
if the screen is faulty then you can plug this back in
and get a replacement screen
if you need to replace the headphone socket or the loudspeaker
it comes as one complete unit
start by releasing this ribbon connector just here
and using your nail or a plastic tool
lift this up, and it comes away quite easily
this also contains 2 antenna's, the connections are in each corner here
and you can see the circuit going through there
if you need to replace your sim tray or your micro sd tray
then lift this ribbon connector up
being careful not to damage any components nearby
and its held on with double sided tape
so insert your blade here, just push it along until eventually it separates
and you can lift that away and replace that
if you are replacing the screen we need to remove all the components
that are attached to the metal frame
so we start by disconnecting the ribbon connectors at the top
this ones for your earpiece, power LED and your volume switches
so we unplug that
this connectors for your secondary camera and your proximity sensor
so lift that up
and coming down to the bottom
we have the main screen connector
fold that back
and we have a single black screw to undo at the bottom
its the only one there so you can't get it mixed up
and we have the antenna connection here
now when you disconnect this try not to lever from this side
because it pushes it up at an angle
so if you lift it off from this side
it does not put any stress on the plug
so carefully lift this out from the channel
and come all the way down to the top of the phone
and this little circuit is held on with double sided tape
so carefully get your screwdriver in there
and lift that up and put that aside
now we can lift the mainboard out
so carefully lift the camera and just ease the mainboard up
away from the body
now if you need to replace the camera
that is quite straight forward
lift the ribbon connector up
gently lift that up
and then you can replace the camera
offer your replacement up
and line that up as best you can
and plug that in
this is the secondary microphone at the top of the phone
this is your power switch
and various antenna connections
this is your main microphone at the bottom of the phone
and the micro USB socket
the other side
these are 2 antenna connections listed as W1 and W2 on the back cover
I think this provides external antenna's for the
GSM/3G radio and possibly Wi-Fi or GPS
and the LED flash is fixed to the board
the vibrating module can be removed by using a pointed tool
just insert it in there and gently lift that up
then carefully ease the ribbon connector off the board
held on with double sided tape again
get your screwdriver in there and lift that up
and put that aside..
and here is a microphone gasket
you may not get this with the new screen
so you might have to lift this out and
then put that into your new screen
its got a little tag at the bottom so
you cannot get it round the wrong way
coming up to the top we have got the secondary camera
and the proximity sensor, so undo this silver screw
and its quite a bit different from the others
so you cannot get it mixed up
now carefully lift the secondry camera and the proximity sensor out from the case
then we have the earpiece, power LED and volume switches
now to remove these you need to push this
volume key out from the back so
just get your screwdriver in here and push that out
top, bottom and middle and you will find that comes out reasonable easy
when you put it back in make sure you put
the slope towards the back of the phone
to release the volume switches, insert a thin blade
and carefully lift them away from the body
try and keep the double sided tape on the switch itself
once your happy that is released
come round and lift the ribbon cable up
gently lift it up towards the earpiece,
and there is another moisture sensor at the top here
come all the way along, just releasing the ribbon
eventually you should find that lifts out reasonably easy
now if your new screen does not come with this metal chassis
you will need to use heat to release the screen from the frame
and then put the new screen back in
I will try and make a video of this in the future
you may have to switch over this little gasket here
if your new screen does not come with that
and the power button, if you need to switch that over
then push out from the bottom here
give it a good push and it will come out
there you go..
and again when you replace it,
make sure the slope goes towards the back of the phone
push that back in again, there you go
so for reassembly
start by offering up the volume switch into the casing
so line that up as best you can
put that into place so the switches line up
nicely with the holes in the case there
once your happy that is in place
move this ribbon cable so it lines up with
the little pin on the case there
then offer up the power LED to the case
and then put the earpiece back in
and make sure the ribbon cable is pushed down
and finally make sure this little pin is lined up with the ribbon connector
and just give that a gentle push down into place
now we can replace the volume key
make sure the slope of the key goes towards the back of the phone
and offer that up into place
and make sure they feel ok
now we can replace the secondary camera and proximity sensor
offer up the camera into place
and the proximity sensor
once you are happy that is in, take that large silver screw
and just do that up finger tight
now we can replace the vibrating module
so offer that up into its hole
and making sure that the 2 little pins line up on the case there
give that a good push, make sure it is stuck down
now we can replace the mainboard
start by offering up the main camera
into the top, hold that ribbon cable back
and just carefully bring that down into place
bring it down all the way
and we will replace that small black screw in the bottom there
now we can reconnect the main screen ribbon
just pop that back into place
and the volume and earpiece ribbon
and the secondary camera
line it up as best you can and pop that into place
once you are happy they are all connected
we can put the sim tray back on again
so line up the holes in the sim
tray with the holes in the case
once you are happy they are all lined up, give it a gentle push
but do not push too hard on these
pieces because you will bend the casing
just push around the edge, just to stick it down
and then plug that ribbon back in again
now we need to replace the antenna cable
so start by offering up this circuit at the top here
and you have got 2 little holes that
line up with pins on the case
so make sure they line up
and just gently push that down, do not push too hard
just to get the double sided tape stuck down
then bring the cable down into this channel
gently pushing it down as you come along
lift that little bit of sticky tape up and get the cable in there
and put that sticky tape back down again
now take your time when you reconnect this
line it up as best you can
it can be a bit tricky
line up that head so it is nice
and square, then push it back down
if it is down properly you will see it sits nice and flat
I think it might be for Wi-Fi or Bluetooth
and make sure that cable goes back down
underneath that circuit board there, there you go
and now we can replace the loudspeaker and headphone assembly
so offer that up to the top, and push that down into place
once you are happy that is pushed in
offer up this ribbon connector as best you can and plug that in
just a final check to make sure everything is plugged in and in place
and now we can replace the back cover
so offer that up
and then push that down into place
there is a few clips at the bottom here, push them down
and now you can replace those 10 Philips screws
you can skip this stage by clicking on the
link (Next) at the top of the video
replace your battery
after replacing your sim card and your memory card
replace your back cover
and then you should have a fully repaired Galaxy S3
Thank you for watching
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and I will do my best to make some more :-)